Requirements lists for classes

Barbara is back from her adventures teaching on a cruise (the world is still swaying slightly beneath her feet) so a high-level meeting at HQ was convened to restore caffeine levels and some semblance of normality.  Major outcome of the meeting is that we have managed to finalise the Needs Lists for the remaining two classes of this year and these are now available on our website. (Thanks once again to the IT department at C&B Towers). You can also download the Needs Lists using the links below.



December 2013 4

The EQ doodle has no connection with our Christmas Capers class – we just fancied adding a touch of festive colour at this point!

So, back to lots of class preparation for both of us – Chris has a very full programme at The Corner Patch and Barbara will be experiencing the full joys of the UK road network for the next few weeks as she travels to give talks and classes in a wide range of locations.

Double Delight workshop

We all survived a rocky start to the workshop – Chris and Helen arrived to set up the room only to discover about 30 children taking an exam. The hall had been double-booked. Cue frantic calls to assorted members of the Hall committee who all seemed to be away or out. Eventually we agreed with the exam invigilator that they would move to the small room at 10.30 (when the exam finished and they would discuss the results). So in the meantime (once keys had been located) we squished into the small room with our tea and biccies and tried to chat quietly amongst ourselves – show-and-tell filled a little time – until we were able to relocate.

But despite all these set-backs (and did we mention the weather? – torrential rain and flooding on the roads) by the time Chris arrived back in the main hall with her boxes everyone had rallied round and set up all the tables and sorted themselves out ready to start.

Double Delight featured two blocks which created a secondary pattern when put together. Both had three-triangle units (of different sizes and orientation to add to the confusion) and one had a partial seam – a new technique to many but easily mastered. A few blocks were put up on Instagram earlier but here’s a few more.

First, two tops which were completed in the day (one even had the start of a border, but Chris didn’t get a photo of that) despite the late start.

Helen's DD quilt topSue's DD quilt topAnd some sets of blocks (or half-tops perhaps?)

Linda's blocksLynns blocksRuth's blocksSheila's blocksWith apologies to all those whose blocks were equally splendid and colourful but haven’t been featured. But we could do another post later . . . This is what we both love about these workshops – everyone starts off with the same worksheet and fabrics labelled A, B, C and D and we get 20 different and stunning results. We’re really looking forward to seeing the completed (but not necessarily quilted!) tops next month. No pressure, folks.

Further thanks to Ann Jermey, our Apprentice Gopher, for stirling work in the kitchen! She’s been promoted to Certified Gopher (the certificate is in the post, Ann).

Workshop Reminder

The first workshop of the new term is nearly upon us – next Saturday, September 12th. Please don’t forget if you have booked a place! The Needs list is here and you will be making something that could look a bit like this –


In case you are wondering what to do with yourselves when we stop our workshops at Tittensor at the end of the year – there is a Block of the Month starting on our sister blog Meadowside Designs this week. The first post with a picture of the quilt and a link to the requirements list is here.

Rotary cutting Part 8

This is the final instalment of our rotary cutting series and looks at cutting the triangles needed for the Peaky and Spike unit.

unitThe centre triangle is an isoceles triangle – its height and base are the same length, so you can cut it from a square. The triangles at the edges (long, or skinny triangles) are half as wide as their length and are thus cut from rectangles.

The square for the centre triangle should be cut 1 inch larger than the finished unit. If you want to cut more than one triangles then cut a strip 1 inch wider than the finished unit – for a 3 inch unit, cut a 4 inch strip.

Mark 4 inch squares along the length of the strip. Make sure you mark on the wrong side of the fabric as these marks may be visible later. The marks in the photos are heavy and thick so they show up, yours should be much lighter.

measure and mark squaresOnce all the squares are marked you need to mark the midway points between the squares – in this example that would be at 2 inches.

mark halfway pointsThese marks could be much shorter than the ‘square’ marks, or in a different colour.

all marking doneMake the first cut by placing the ruler on the bottom of one ‘square’ mark and the next midway mark on the opposite side of the strip.

first cutAnd cut along the edge of the ruler. No angles to measure here as isoceles triangles don’t have nice ‘easy to measure’ angles.

first cut doneTo cut the triangle place the ruler at the bottom of the next ‘square’ mark and at the tip of the cut you just made (on the midway mark).

second cutand cut.

first triangleCut the next triangle by placing the ruler at the base of the ‘square’ mark and the top of the next midway mark – (and you can see why you mark on the wrong side of the strip)

second triangle doneContinue along the strip until you have cut the number of triangles you need. Don’t forget that you can keep the strip folded and cut two triangles at a time – its much quicker.

Now its time for the skinny triangles. The rectangles should be 1 + 1/4 inches longer than the unit and 5/8 inch wider than half the width of the unit. So our 3 inch finished size units needs rectangles that are 4 + 1/4 inches x 3/2 + 5/8  (i.e. 2 +1/8) inches. For each unit you need two mirror image triangles – this means you need to cut two rectangles to start with. It is easier if you keep the strip folded and cut the rectangles in pairs.

Cut the paired rectangles in half across one diagonal.

cut rectangles in half

rectangles cutThis will give you two sets of mirror image triangles

mirror imagesThese can then be paired with the larger triangles –

pair with trianglespaired ready to stitchready to stitch together.




September already

The first day of September and it already feels like autumn here.  We’ve remembered to post our EQ doodlings for this month so do go over to that page and take a look. This month we have a rather fetching Star Sampler to share, and it’s one that may be magically transformed into a pattern (hint to Chris), or perhaps a series of classes (hint to Jane).

The Kaleidoscope doodle below is one Chris made in one of her EQ classes –

kaleidoscope 1

Barbara will be sailing the high seas for the next 2 weeks leaving Chris (yet again) to deal with the sprawling C&B Empire.  The next Saturday class at Tittensor is Double Delight on 12 September and Chris also has a full schedule of classes at The Corner Patch in Eccleshall. It’s all go!!


Rotary cutting Part 7

Having done the 60 degree triangles and diamonds last time we probably ought to look at 45 degree diamonds – these are the ones used in 8-pointed and Lone Stars.

eight pointed starLone StarAs for the 60 degree diamonds – first cut a strip the width of the diamond plus 1/2 inch for seam allowance. Then trim the ends of the strip to 45 degrees using the 45 degree line on the ruler. Keep the strip folded in two as you will need half your diamonds cut left to right and half right to left – keeping the strip folded cuts these two at the same time without you having to worry about it. If using two colours for your diamonds. open the strips out and place them right (or wrong) sides together and then cut.

trim to 45 degsend trimmedNow line the 45 degree line up along one long edge, measure the same width as the strip along to cut the diamond. These are 2 + 1/2 inch diamonds.

measure diamondand cut the first diamond

cut diamondJust as before, slide the ruler along to cut more diamonds.

continueYou will need 8 (obviously) for an 8-pointed star – as you are cutting two at a time you only need to cut four pairs. Each cut pair makes a unit –

use for Lone StarAnd that’s it. Next time we’ll look at cutting the triangles you need for the unit often known as Peaky and Spike.






Rotary cutting Part 6

Those lines marked with numbers that go across your ruler are for cutting 60 degree (or 30 degree) angles – especially equilateral (60 degree) triangles and diamonds. These are used to make hexagon shapes.

All rulers have these lines – some have more than others and some are clearer than others.

rulers and degree linesFirst cut your strip. For equilateral triangles cut the strip 3/4 (three quarters) inch wider than the required height of the triangle. So if the finished size of the triangle is 3 inches, cut a 3 + 3/4 inch wide strip.

Trim one end of the strip to a 60 degree angle. Which end depends on whether you are right or left handed among other things – dance around the strip and cutting mat until you decide which end feels most comfortable. Find the 60 degree line on the ruler and place it on one of the long sides of the strip –

60 degree linethen trim off the unwanted triangle.

trim end to 60 degsNow turn the ruler so it faces the other way, place a 60 degree line on a long side of the strip and the edge of the ruler against the tip of the first cut. This can sometimes involve a lot of dancing round the mat and turning the ruler over and round, but eventually you will find the right edges to line up (and it is much easier in the privacy of your own home than in a classroom full of students – or ‘sewing in public’ as one of our students described the feeling).

cut triangleCut along the ruler to cut the first triangle.

60 deg triangleTo cut the next triangle you need to dance around the mat again to line the 60 degree line up with one edge of the strip and the ruler going the other way to meet the tip of the triangle you just cut –

cut second triangleContinue dancing and cutting until you have the right number of triangles. You can keep the strip folded and cut two at a time for speed – the shapes are symmetrical.

Diamonds involve slightly less dancing! Thiis time add 1/2 inch to the width of the strip for a seam allowance – for a 2 inch wide diamond, cut a 2 + 1/2 inch wide strip. Trim the end of the strip as before.

trim end to 60 degsNow place the ruler with the 60 degree line along one long edge and the 2 + 1/2 inch line (or the same measurement as your width of strip) along the edge you just cut. You can cut this way –

measure diamondor this way –

measure diamond bYou end up with the same size and shape diamond.

diamond cutJust keep sliding the ruler along the strip to cut more diamonds. Once again you can keep the strip folded and cut two at a time. These diamonds are used in blocks such as ‘Tumbling Blocks’.